One of the best things about making clothes for yourself is getting the perfect fit. Standard measurements are about averages and statistics, not uniqueness and individuality.
This is where schematics come in useful when knitting. They hold the key to unlocking a custom made garment that fits that way YOU want it to.
I’m going to work through my recently released Oscuro Sweater and look at how to use its schematic
to create a great fit.
Finished Bust Measurement:
My bust measurement is 86cm and the pattern is 94cm:
94cm – 86cm = 8cm ease
8 cm ease is pretty standard for wearing over undergarments and light clothing, so I’m going to choose this size pattern.
Garment finished Length:
My Nape to Hip measurement is 62cm and for the chosen size the Finished Garment Length is 65.5cm:
65.5 – 62 = 3.5cm longer than hip
I’m pretty happy with that.
Hip and Waist Measurements:
For this design there is no Waist shaping so we will just look at Hip circumference. My Hip measurement is 97cm while the pattern’s Hem Width doubled less 2cm for seams is
48.5 x 2 – 2 = 95cm
95 – 97 = -2cm ease.
This would normally be a problem and you may need to add extra stitches to the side seam and reduce them as you approach the underarm point. However, I like the look of the longer hem pulling open slightly at the front. So I won’t be changing this.
My Bicep measurement is 27cm the pattern’s Top Arm measurement less 1cm for seams is 30 – 1 = 29cm.
29 – 27 = +2cm ease
This works well for a close fitting garment, but if I wanted to wear bulkier clothing underneath I may be better going up a size in pattern.
In this garment the Cross Back is the same as Shoulder Width, so I measure distance from Shoulder to Shoulder:
My measurement reads 34cm while the pattern has a Cross Back measurement of 37cm less 1cm for seams.
36 – 34 = +2cm ease
This is perfect for this design.
For this I measure the distance from the Shoulder to Wrist bone with my elbow bent slightly:
Because there is 2cm ease for my Cross Back measurement the shoulder line of the garment will sit 1cm wider than my shoulders at either side. So I add this to the Sleeve Length.
My Shoulder to Wrist measurement is 63cm, the patterns Sleeve Length is 63cm less 0.5cm for a
seam plus the 1cm from the Cross Back measurement.
63.5 – 63 = 0.5cm longer than wristbone.
I've summarised all this in a free pdf download to help you do Your Unique Oscuro Sweater Calculations here.
So once you have done your calculations you will be able to chose the size that fits you ... or even a combination of sizes. Maybe you will be a larger size in the hip and waist reducing stitches to continue at the bust in a smaller size. Or you may change the lengths to get the sleeve or body length just right. I hope you enjoy the journey of creating your own unique Oscuro Sweater.
Haven't got your Oscuro Pattern yet? Get more info here.